Frugal Traveler – American Road Trip From Wyoming to Montana on Foot
Frugal Traveler | American Road Trip
From Wyoming to Montana on Foot
Contemplating the peak of Lonesome Mountain from the icy waters of Becker Lake.
By MATT GROSS Published: August 1, 2007
TEN THOUSAND feet above sea level, just north of the Wyoming-Montana border, lies Albino Lake, a fish-shaped oblong of icy water bounded on its east by a reddish, rock-slide-scarred ridge and on its west by the high, bare peak of Lonesome Mountain. A few tiny, rocky islands poke up from the water, and on one stands a thatch of purple wildflowers that glow like neon in the golden light of late afternoon. When night falls, the surface of the lake turns silver, then black. The rough stillness in the air is a constant reminder that, although a thin trail runs along the shore, this is the very edge of civilization – the frontier.
It was here, on the lake’s gentle, mossy southern slopes, that my friend Mary Ellen Hitt and I camped on our second night in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, a section of the Gallatin National Forest just northeast of Yellowstone. All summer long, I’d been wanting to experience America the most frugal way possible – and to live out my “Man vs. Wild” fantasies – and these 920,377 acres of mountains, lakes, streams and valleys, recommended by several readers, seemed like a perfect place to do it.
American Cowboy has named Bozeman one of the top 20 places to live in the West!
American Cowboy has named Bozeman one of the top 20 places to live in the West.
Bozeman was one of two Montana cities that made the magazine’s first annual list, unveiled this week in its April-May issue. Missoula, and out-of-state cities such as Bend, Ore., and Steamboat Springs, Colo., also received the honor.
Bozeman also has been named as one of the best small towns and best places to retire.
Montana State University rodeo coach Mike True said part of Bozeman’s appeal might be its mix of traditional and modern western, with amenities ranging from historic Yellowstone National Park to new-aged horseback adventures.
Montana, Gallatin Valley Economic Growth – The Growing Valley
THE GROWING VALLEY
IN THE GALLATIN VALLEY, ECONOMIC GROWTH WAS ONCE AGAIN THE STORY OF THE YEAR; CONSTRUCTION BOOM IN 2007 MAKES AREA ONE OF THE STATE’S HOTTEST SPOTS
By GAIL SCHONTZLER
Chronicle Staff Writer
Growth was again Gallatin County’s biggest economic story of the year, making this area one of the brightest spots in a year of general prosperity for Montana.
Construction – the engine that put the local economy into overdrive for the past few years – had definitely downshifted in 2006 from the record-setting years of 2004 and 2005. In Bozeman, construction revved up again in 2007, making it the third-busiest year in history for builders. But construction could be slowing as we head into 2008.
”All in all it was a good year,” said Shawn Cote, government affairs director for the Southwest Montana Building Industry Association.
”If you look at the building permit numbers by themselves, you’d say 2007 was a fantastic year,” Cote said. But for some builders the market started to soften in the fall, he aid.
”The amount of inventory is indicative there could be a correction in 2008,” Cote said. “We’ve never had an inventory glut like we have now.”
Superheated housing prices also cooled some in 2007. Instead of houses jumping in value by 10 or 15 percent annually as they had the past few years, the median price for a single-family home sold in Bozeman actually slipped 3 percent in 2007. The median price went up 1 percent in Belgrade and dropped 13 percent in Big Sky.
Some saw 2007 as the first time in 20 years that it’s been more of a buyer’s market than a seller’s market.
”We’ve seen a real steady, stable market in Bozeman,” said Tricia Bailey, 2007 president of the Gallatin Association of Realtors and broker-owner of 45th Parallel Realty. “We have seen the real crazy appreciation (of the past) stabilize, because the amount of inventory has slightly increased over demand. But you’re really seeing a balance. You’re not seeing prices tumble… . There’s still steady demand and amble supple.”
Bozeman’s status as a regional retail center grew in 2007 with the opening of several multi-million-dollar stores.
”I bet we’re going to do 600,000 square feet in new commercial” space in 2007, said Andy Epple, Bozeman city planning director. Epple said that’s equivalent to adding two new Gallatin Valley Malls in one year.
Growth brought with it a string of related problems – a high cost of living, a labor shortage, a shortage of affordable housing, closure of trailer parks and workers complaining that their wages aren’t keeping up with high housing prices.
Still, local voters said yes to several costly projects needed to keep up with growth – approving millions of dollars in bonds for new schools in Bozeman and Big Sky, and higher taxes to pay for police and fire services in Bozeman.
Bozeman was again blessed in 2007 with a well-diversified economy. Montana State University and Bozeman Deaconess Hospital, the area’s two biggest employers (with 3,000 and 1,000 employees, respectively), served as steady anchors. Tourism, agriculture and the high-tech industry also contributed to the local economy.
”Our economy remains a real bright spot in Montana,” said Bob Hietala, chief executive officer of the nonprofit Prospera Business Network. “We continue to have about the highest growth of any Montana county.”
THE TOP ECONOMIC NEWS
STORIES FOR 2007 ARE:
Even though numbers are available only through November, the year 2007 is already the third-biggest in Bozeman history for the construction of new homes (733 permits issued for houses, condos, apartments and townhouse dwellings). It also was the third-biggest year in Bozeman history for the total number of building permits issued, 855 permits for everything from new businesses to home remodels.
And 2007 was the No. 1 year ever for the estimated value of construction – $231 million, though that record partly reflects rapid inflation in construction costs.
Putting 2007 into perspective, Epple said when he first moved to the sleepy university town of Bozeman to be a city planner 20 years ago, the city issued a grand total of 47 permits for new homes. This year the number was 16 times greater. If some people accuse him of having a “no growth” policy, Epple joked, it’s been quite a failure.
For Gallatin County in 2007, the number of septic permits issued to homes and businesses continued a steady decline (from 656 in 2004 to 445 this year). Tim Roark, county environmental health director, said part of the decline is due to a steady increase in public sewer systems, like that at Big Sky. Still, Roark said, 10 or 15 years ago, the county was issuing only 200 to 300 permits a year.
Shawn Cote, government affairs director for the Southwest Montana Building Industry Association, said in the fall of 2007, things started to tighten up for builders.
”I’ve talked to some builders who are as busy as they’ve ever been, and some are slowing down,” Cote said.
“I think there’s less work, particularly in Big Sky.”
Where in recent years builders would put help-wanted ads in the paper and no one would answer, Cote said, now there are 15 to 20 people who call looking for work.
”The consensus is the first half of 2008 will be pretty soft,” Cote said. “I think there’s a general nervousness.”
2. Retail rocked in 2007, creating hundreds of jobs.
On North 19th Avenue, Bozeman saw the opening of the new $11.8 million Lowe’s Home Improvement store, the $3.9 million Sportsman’s Warehouse, the $1.3 million World Market and other new stores. The $5 million Rosauer’s Supermarket opened on Huffine Lane in the new Bozeman Gateway development.
1. Construction remained strong in 2007, according to Bozeman city building permits.
3. Housing prices – For the first time in several years, home prices in Bozeman actually slipped slightly, instead of making spectacular gains.
Montana appeared to escape the worst of the subprime loan meltdown that has home prices falling in much of the nation. Realtors and builders attributed the softening of prices more to local supply getting a bit ahead of demand.
The changing market has meant good news for homebuyers. Buyers have more places to choose from, and a little better chance to negotiate on price.
”You’re no longer competing with five offers on every single home,” said Tricia Bailey, 2007 president of the Gallatin Association of Realtors. “You’re still seeing Bozeman homes selling for 97 percent of the asking price. In 2005, a really crazy, crazy year, we were seeing 100 to 101 percent of the asking price.
”You can pick and choose the house you’re interested in without it disappearing overnight.”
While the changing market has been good for buyers, it’s been bad for speculators. In 2007, investors couldn’t use real estate as short-term way to make big profits, Bailey said.
4. Gallatin County banks posted a record of $1.635 billion in deposits as of June 30, 2007.
It shows just how much the county has changed, as bank deposits have increased by nearly $1 billion in seven years. The 2007 total was also $80 million more than the year before.
Only Yellowstone County, with $2.3 billion in deposits, had more money in the bank than Gallatin County, according to the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp.
Other counties with fast-growing populations, like Flathead and Missoula counties, also have seen large increases in deposits, but none has grown as quickly as Gallatin County.
”The money that comes into our area banks can be turned around and lended out to local businesses and construction projects,” First Security Bank President Ron Farmer said in October.
5. Paying for growth was hotly debated in 2007.
After Gallatin County commissioners heard from dozens of unhappy real-estate brokers, builders and business owners, they approved in November an increase in road impact fees for new homes but not businesses.
A Florida consultant recommended that Bozeman triple its impact fees on new developments to pay for streets, but commissioners voted in December to increase the fees on a single-family home by $858 to $3,238.
Monforton School made a pitch to charge impact fees for schools, to ease the tax burden on property owners and pay for school expansion to provide room for children from all the new subdivisions coming to its area.
Bozeman voters passed special mill levies to pay for expanding police and fire services, and a $17 million bond issue to build a seventh elementary school.
6. Big Sky flexed its economic (and political) muscles in 2007.
In January, the state Department of Commerce reported that the booming resort had a huge economic impact on the state – producing 7,600 jobs and $478 million in spending – bigger than Montana State University’s $385 million annual spending. Local residents sought the report to demonstrate the area’s economic clout and to help persuade the 2007 Legislature to let Big Sky have its own high school.
Big Sky may have only 2,000 year-round residents, but they’re intent on making it a real community. The Big Sky Chamber of Commerce formed a Community and Infrastructure Solution group, which recommended that Big Sky consider incorporating as a town.
7. Downsides of growth made news in 2007.
The cost of living in Bozeman rose again, to 7 percent above the national average, the Prospera Business Network reported. Housing costs were the main reason, running 22 percent above the national average.
The high cost of living made it harder to recruit employees, and harder for employers to fill vacancies. Montana State University had to raise wages for custodians, and fast-food places in Bozeman advertised they were paying up to $13 an hour.
Gallatin County’s unemployment rate was 2.7 percent in November, lower than state’s 3.3 percent.
8. Downtown Bozeman’s down time seemed never ending.
Main Street was closed for six months while crews resurfaced the street, replaced water pipes, improved crosswalks with bricklike surfaces and installed new traffic lights with better pedestrian crossing signals.
Businesses were hurt, but in November downtown celebrated with a grand “reopening.” Downtown’s future should get a boost from the long-planned, $9.2 million parking garage, which finally began construction.
9. High tech remained strong.
Montana State University reported $102 million in research spending for the year ended in June, the first time the total had slipped from the year-before total of $103 million, but still a significant contributor to the local economy.
The state awarded a $200,000 job training grant to CDI-Aerospace to start up its Bozeman engineering design center for Sikorsky Aircraft, expected to hire and train more than 40 employees.
Gallatin Valley growth in 2007 remained strong in both residential and commercial construction. New retail space near
North 19th Avenue and Oak Street is being added adjacent to recently completed stores.
DEIRDRE EITEL/CHRONICLE
Falling Market? Injured Economy?
You can never say enough good things about Bozeman.
I know consumers can’t help but listening to the never-ending media hype about the falling market and injured economy. But we’re here to tell you that is NOT the case here in Bozeman. We are one of the luckiest cities in the country, we continue to boom, bang and awe not only our annual visitors but our locals as well. Bozeman is one of the best places to live, retire, go to school, start a family and thrive. People come to Bozeman for ONE reason, because they WANT TO! That makes my job, and everyone elses job, so much nicer!
We love Bozeman, Montana and you should too! I’ve been collecting articles and publications on Bozeman and what a great city it has always been and will continue to be. Below are a few more articles that you REALLY should read.
- The Aging West – Forget Retiring to Florida, Arizona – More Boomers are Heading to the Rockies!
- All Alone in ‘the last best place’ – Even cowboys like soft pillows!
When you finally decide to come up and visit, don’t forget to give us a call and we can give you tons of information on the best places to stay, eat and have a blast! There is no end to the amount of fun and relaxation you can find in our great city. We have an amazing hiking system, unbelievable fly-fishing, great skiing & snowboarding, don’t forget snow-mobiling, Yellowstone National Park is only 88 miles from Bozeman, the hunting is fantastic and the people are warm and welcoming.
You’ll love it here!
Best Place To Retire – Bozeman, Montana
The people of Bozeman, Mont., don’t want this story to be published. They want the writers and photographers out, and they want the media to forget that their beautiful, once little town exists. “There’s the idea that ‘foreigners,’ as we call them, are going to destroy old-time Montana,” says Connie Lord, a longtime Bozeman resident and native of the state. When Lord returned to Big Sky Country after moving away for work, she discovered a transformed city. “What happened to my sleepy little town?” she wondered.
Bozeman—an outdoorsy sanctuary tucked within the Rocky Mountains, just 93 miles north of Yellowstone National Park—anchors Montana’s fastest-growing county. Bozeman is home to Montana State University, but it has also become a mecca to vacationers and tech-industry workers, along with retirees looking for peace, quiet, culture, community, and the great outdoors.
Winters in Bozeman offer excellent skiing at the nearby glitzy Big Sky Ski Resort and local favorite Bridger Bowl Ski Area. For the warmer months, hiking trails snake through the foothills and canyons in every direction, while the Gallatin, Yellowstone, and Madison rivers, less than an hour’s drive away, are teeming with avid fly fishers (fish, too).
A historic downtown boasts cafes and boutiques and serves as the venue for a seemingly endless number of art fairs and music festivals. Opportunities abound for horseback riding, and dude ranches outside town attract tourists and sometimes even locals. The university, the Emerson Center for the Arts and Culture, and the Museum of the Rockies add their own energy, culture, and academic pedigree to the scene.
For Lord, who works at the university as a research technician, life revolves around ballroom dancing and the active two-step scene in Bozeman. She meets with her partner and other dancers from all over the county several times a week to practice, a time when sprightly senior citizens can mambo with 14-year-olds.
Outsiders have found the area hard to resist, and fewer and fewer do. Bozeman has attracted plenty of wealthy retirees who gravitate toward pricey real estate on the outskirts of the city. And the influx of all those well-heeled seniors has made living in what some have jokingly renamed “Boz Angeles” nearly unaffordable. New, reasonably priced housing does exist—a three-bedroom house could go for $275,000—but for natives whose wages have not increased to match, the transformation is often startling.
Change at the Bozeman Hot Springs mirrors the town’s metamorphosis. The once dingy gathering spot has recently been transformed into a ritzy spa featuring nine pools filled with hot springs water, a fitness center, and a sauna.
Yet as corners of the town are upgraded and re-imagined to the chagrin of some locals, Bozeman’s core appeal remains the same: a sense of community that’s obvious in the city’s many groups and meet ups dedicated to skiing, hiking, painting, and knitting, to name a few. And as long as newcomers respect Bozeman’s natural beauty and small-town feel, they’re sure to feel welcome. The locals are a very nice bunch, really. Just don’t tell them you’re a reporter.
ABOUT BOZEMAN, MONTANA
Population: 33,535
Median home price: $279,300
January average temperatures (high/low): 33/14
July temperatures: 82/52
Read More Stats on Bozeman – Go to: City-Data.com
Also on the list:
- Hillsboro, Oregon – Special Thanks to Alison Go
- San Francisco, California – Special Thanks to Justin Ewers
- Prescott, Arizona – Special Thanks to Alex Markels
- Lawrence, Kansas – Special Thanks to David LaGesse
- Fayetteville, Arkansas – Special Thanks to David LaGesse
- Concord, New Hampshire – Special Thanks to Paul J. Lim
- Smyrna, Tennessee – Special Thanks to Emily Brandon
- Peachtree City, Georgia – Special Thanks to Renuka Rayasam
- Venice, Florida – Special Thanks to David LaGesse
Source: OnBoard LLC
Thanks to www.USNews.com for the information above.
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